Afri-love

Is there any use for the term "Afropolitan"?

There are moments where I feel totally at home. Living in the UK, with a Kenyan passport and a visa with an expiry date, that doesn't happen all that often. But it happened on Friday night, at the Victoria & Albert Museum no less. The Afropolitans Friday Late saw this world-renowned museum transformed into a celebration of contemporary African art and culture. The content, the ambience and the crowd made for the kind of beautiful, vibrant and uplifting experience that warms the soul as much as being or feeling at home.

As part of the festivities, I shared a panel with four great proponents of the Afri-love spirit: journalist, poet and writer, Tolu Ogunlesi; writer and blogger, Minna Salami, aka MsAfropolitan; journalist and author, Hannah Pool and; record label executive and founder of Afro-Pop Live, Yemi Alade-Lawal. Our topic of discussion – "what is an Afropolitan?" We explored this term, coined by Taiye Tuakli-Wosornu in 2005, and all that it has come to embody ever since.

There were some great questions from the audience (similar to these from Asé Fountain), challenging the panel as to:

1. Whether there is a political dimension to being an Afropolitan or whether it's just simply about style.
2. Whether Afropolitanism is inclusive or just another way to create divisions within our community (in the Diaspora as well as between Diaspora and the continent of Africa).
3. Whether the Afropolitan idea is attainable for, and indeed even desirable to, all.

I won't attempt to recapture exactly what our responses were on the night but, I will share my thoughts:

1. Politics starts with you
Politics is not something that is separate from us – something that is solely conducted by designated officials far removed from the experience of our daily lives. As individuals, as citizens, we are constantly making political decisions through what we say and what we do. If subscribing to a certain identity, e.g. identifying as an Afropolitan, gives you the pride and confidence to take a stand for yourself and your rights – that's a political action right there. If seeing yourself in a positive light means that you are less likely to accept being treated without respect – that's politics right there. The so-called Arab Spring was a result of people realising that they didn't have to take what they were dealt and of organising themselves in order to get that assertion acknowledged and acted upon. Identifying with an idea and building an active community around it is inevitably going to be about more than fashion and entertainment.

2. It's what you make it
Labels are contentious. They can be especially destructive when rigid and/or imposed. "Afropolitan" however, by its very nature, is flexible. It's about drawing influence, experience, knowledge and inspiration from several sources. Therefore it's impossible to restrict the conditions that make someone an Afropolitan. What the term means is at once elusive (as panel chair Tolu concluded) and obvious (in one of those I-feel-it-but-can't-quite-put-into-words kind of ways). And perhaps that's it right there: that it's more of a feeling than something to be dissected rationally.

3. Something for everyone?
Which brings me nicely to the third question. I sometimes observe that Africans in the Diaspora can get overly comfortable speaking for Africans on the continent. Yes, we share origins, fore-fathers and mothers, many values and even languages. But one thing we do not share is present experience. Being in the Diaspora does not necessarily make us more privileged, learned, talented etc. and it definitely doesn't make us more superior! Sometimes we have to step back and beware that we do not fall into the thinking of those who don't know better and those who would rather see the continent as a forsaken place in need of enlightenment from outside.

The Afropolitan term originated from Diaspora experiences and as such, it has gained tremendous traction within the Diaspora. That is not to assume that it is viewed as desirable, or even relevant, to Africans everywhere (perhaps readers in Africa can share their thoughts on this?).

Going back to the "meaning" of the word, "African" + "cosmopolitan" = "Afropolitan." Nowhere in that make-up is a specification about just where those cosmopolitan locations are. In this globalised and tech-savvy day and age, Africans on the continent can be as connected as anybody else in terms of knowledge and exposure. As Minna suggested, there are probably more Afropolitans, by this simple definition, on the continent than outside!

What do you think of the Afropolitan idea? Do you identify with it? How or why not?

Check out photos from the event here.

2 product design projects in Mozambique

Yesterday Mozambique celebrated Independence Day. In honour of the occasion, I'd like to share 2 design projects that were brought to my attention by Afri-love reader, Karen.

Studio dandoen

Studio dandoen believes that design should focus on Local materials + Techniques = High quality products in partnership with local workforce. Practising what they preach, they create quality furniture, clothes and bags using innovative, sustainable, recycled materials. Check out the studio's website for more of their funky quirky designs.

Mescla

Combining traditional sarong textiles (capulanas) with a new knotting technique, the Mescla Collection creates unique pieces handmade by Mozambican women. Purchases help give the women a livelihood and empower communities suffering from disease and social deprivation. The Mescla website is under construction but you can find out a little more about them through the following brochure: Download MESCLA_FOLDER_Clients_.

Thanks for the great tips Karen!

Also check out last year's multidisciplinary Mozambican celebration.

TGIF! Sounds from Africa Oyé

Sounds from some of the artists who performed at last weekend's Africa Oyé festival. Enjoy.

And if you're in London this evening, don't forget to check out the Afropolitans Friday Late at the V&A museum. It's going to be a great night! See you there …

 

 

 

 

Interview with fashion designer, Adèle Dejak

While in Kenya last April, I had the wonderful opportunity to meet fashion designer Adèle Dejak, who'd I'd posted about earlier in the year. I continue to be impressed by Adèle's productivity, perfectionism and professionalism. All of these attributes are evident in the high quality of her prolific collection of work. She gave me a tour of her workshop and showroom in Kiambu and sat down with me to talk about her story and her inspiration.

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What's your passion?
Passion for fashion! I love fashion and fashion accessories. A woman deserves to look good and that's my passion. Sorry, change that. Design. Anything: it could be fashion, photography, illustration, websites, anything to do with design. That's my passion.

What inspired MagikGrace?
Magik as in amazing, not superstition. I came up with it in 2002, the year after my mother died. She died suddenly and it was a big shock to everyone. Her name was Grace. She was a very special person to me. I didn't want to call it "amazing" because that would sound like the hymn. So I went with Magik, with a K so that it doesn't hint at superstition, and that's how I came up with the name MagikGrace.

What was it like learning to run a business?
I'm not a businesswoman. So it's incredible that I have a business! It's taught me a lot about finding a really really reliable manager. I have two: Morine and Carol. They are amazing. I used to be very naive and too trustworthy. I had a previous manager who stole quite a lot from me. That was just bad luck. Unfortunately, the downside of what I do now is that I'd like to be designing all day. I'm only designing 10% of the time, 20% at most, and most of the time dealing with pricing (which I hate), communication strategies, PR, marketing etc. I don't want to get involved. I just want to come in and design. 

It's mainly my fault simply because I'm a terrible control freak. If you want something done with your vision in mind, you've got to be. I've had to learnt to delegate but it's really hard. I've got a workshop supervisor, workshop manager. 

What has been your greatest obstacle or challenge in establishing and developing of your business?
Quality. Finding the right suppliers for my horn ebony. I would create a drawing and give a sample to the guy doing the horn work and it would come out tacky, cheap and badly made. I think the biggest challenge is finding the right people. Not  labourers because that's quite easy – I've been quite lucky in that respect. I have very loyal labourers: tailors, jewellery-makers, beaders. But the biggest problem with the business I'm doing now has been finding good quality artisans – those who produce good quality work.

How have you dealt with it, what solutions have you found?
I've just kept looking and asking everywhere and everyone. Even going to shops and asking, "who made this? Can I have their contacts?" Some people would give me that information, some wouldn't. I've been lucky because some of these places really helped me locate the right people.

What is your greatest achievement?
My greatest achievement is that, in such a short time, I've established myself as a well-made brand, here in Kenya [Adèle has established four boutiques in under three years] . For a newcomer, I think that's probably my greatest achievement. 

Do you have desires to expand?
Yeah, that's next. People do buy from Italy, France. I would like Adele Dejak/MagikGrace to be an established, well-known brand, internationally.

Where do you see yourself in ten years?
Still in Africa and doing what I'm doing. I wouldn't say I'd like a factory with 3,000 people – no, that would compromise the quality. My brand will be well-recognised but … I don't like looking too far ahead. You don't know what's around the corner. I love Africa so I'll still be in Africa – still in Kenya or Nigeria or …  anywhere in Africa. Still improving – there's always room for improvement, nothing is perfect. Trying to improve, hopefully, an established international brand.

How does Africa inspire you?
In every shape and form. I would say the fabrics are key, and the artwork. I'm half Nigerian you know. I grew up in England but was always on holiday in Nigeria. More recently (four years ago), with my husband in Lagos where I've never been. There's so much – it's so rich in everything: pottery, artwork, paintings. The fabric is artwork in itself. I'm a huge fan of the aso-oke. The Kenyan kikoy with an aso-oke looks great and could be worn anywhere in the world. They've got this African feel. 

I love everything about Africa. There's something special here. Life for most Africans is so hard – most of them struggle. They push to do something better.  You see in the villages people make toys from takataka (rubbish). My recycled bag is inspired by the mama mbogas who carry vegetables using sacks. I thought that's such a cool thing – it's amazing that they just use everything. Africans have been the first inventors of recycling, they recycle everything. Things don't get really thrown away because there are people who will rummage through that rubbish and get what they think they can use in some way or another. I think it's amazing. Ingenuity. Thats the word I've been looking for. I think that's what makes Africa special. Nothing is wasted here.

Is there anything else you'd like to share?
That's tough. There's so much I want to share. My job is amazing. I've been lucky I have an amazing team; they are brilliant and I adore them. I've met the right people at the right time in the right place. I'm a huge believer in coincidence and chance. On some of my paintings I write, "make chance essential." That's from Deepak Chopra (my husband always teases me about that). In his book, Synchrodestiny, he writes, "make chance essential." It really does make sense because everything that happens in your life is a chance thing and it's how you use that particular moment in time. Everything that happens to your life is what you make of a chance coincidental moment. Sometimes you can look back and say what would have happened if I had done this? Would it have been something bad or positive? 

With regard to me and my business and my life, I think it's just taking specific moments, having met specific people, and using it. Not in a selfish way but, as a journey. It's all a journey, a path with moments we connect with, to move on in the  progression of the journey

Is there anything we should look out for from you in the coming weeks, months, years?
My Afri-love collection. I'm so excited about it – I've created it in your honour. It should be coming out around September because it takes a while. Just getting a sample might take two weeks or three. I'm targeting September-October for the Afri-love collection. Also, my little black dress. I would love to go into interiors. I want to focus more on my bags as well. A couple of new designs will be in the Afri-love collection.

 (me with Adèle and her team, at their workshop in Kiambu)

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Check out Adèle Dejak's blog for updates, fun inside peeks, giveaways etc. There are some truly great photos of her collections, events (such as the Tribal Chic fashion show) and experiences running the business (such as the history, Adèle's trips to market etc.) on her Facebook page. View more photos from my visit on the Afri-love Facebook page.

Images: top, seventh and eighth by Dean Zulich; Adèle portrait and team photo, courtesy of Adèle; remaining pictures taken by Lulu Kitololo.

Afriapps post: Is your app getting noticed? Presentation is everything, part I

Check out my guest post over on Afriapps: "Is your app getting noticed? Presentation is everything, part I." Here's an excerpt:

"I judge books by their covers. It's the path I chose, as a visual communicator, and the unsettling realisation that years of experience and observation have brought me is that, presentation is often everything. I've seen mediocre ideas in shiny packaging be heralded as genius. I've seen excellent concepts not even given a second glance because, on the surface, they just weren't engaging enough … "

Read on at Afriapps.

Sights at Africa Oyé

I attended the Africa Oyé festival in Liverpool this weekend. Just as last year, I enjoyed a great day out filled with soulful music, good food (the Senegambian lamb in peanut sauce with joloff rice deserves a special mention – yum!), beautiful African crafts and positive vibrations all around. 

Above are some pictures taken in between the dancing.

It's great to see a festival in this country with no fences, no searching of bags and no effusive displays of "authority" (such as the human walls of police often seen at the Notting Hill carnival). And what was the result? A peaceful event with hundreds of happy shining people. Goes to show …

Performers above: Kayrece Fotso and the Gangbe Brass Band 

The Polychromatic Afropolitan

Something bright for your weekend, even if it's grey outside (as it is here!). Picking up where we left off with the Afropolitan series.

Modern kuba cloth pattern tablemat by Aphro Chic; Crochet Maasai necklace by Etsy seller ZZAG; Eva Sonaike Faji notebook from the MsAfropolitan online boutique; Maslinda suede fringe necklace; Hand-stitched leather ball key rings from Mali; Woven kente bangles, handmade for Anthropologie by master weavers in Rwanda; Ghanaian Gambibgo pot; "Yoruba" bedding; Handwoven 100% silk scarf, made in Ethiopia, from Aiyda

Afropolitan style: ebony-inspired (in celebration of Afropolitans taking over the world's greatest museum of art & design)

Next Friday night, London's V&A Museum will be celebrating Afropolitans. You can expect a live performance by Spoek Mathambo; photo,video, fashion and interactive installations; a Malick Sidibé style portrait photo studio; a wax print workshop; textile presentations; a North African-style cocktails salon; film screenings; panel discussions and; an eclectic mix of African music from DJ Vamanos from the Ghetto Bassquake and Secousse Sound System. Contemporary Africa will be taking over the world's greatest museum of art and design.

Minna Salami, aka MsAfropolitan, has invited me to be one of the panelists discussing the idea of what it means to be an Afropolitan. Tolu Ogunlesi, Hannah Pool, Minna and I will be exploring how people are identifying with this term and what effect this identification is having on perceptions of Africa and Africans. I'm honoured and excited (and nervous no doubt). I hope to see some of you there!

Enough with the preamble. I'm going to be running an Afropolitan series of posts in the run-up to the event. Today – a collection of ebony-inspired Afropolitan fashion and home decor. 

In your imagination, what does the Afropolitan lifestyle look like?
 

Tracy Reese dress at Anthropologie; Wire-wrapped bone earrings from Ten Thousand Villages; Handwoven Ethiopian scarf from Aiyda; Oryx Horn Mpingo Jars from Swahili Imports; Adele Dejak belt; Batik bag from Etsy seller, African Street Couture; Dancing circles brass earrings from Ten Thousand Villages; Ashanti wooden stool from Swahili Imports; Haitian tree of life wall hanging made from upcycled metal drums, available at Ten Thousand Villages.

Natural hair journey: length check & my current regimen, 10 months after the big chop

It's been a while since I've shared a hair update. Time flies and I'm so happy at how healthy my hair is growing. My current regimen goes like this:

• Wash once a week:
  • Finger comb previous twist-outs and gently address any tangles
  • Pre-poo by putting coconut oil through my hair and massage my scalp
  • Wash with a sulfate-free shampoo (I currently use Giovanni Tea Tree Triple Threat shampoo)
  • Apply a rich conditioner through hair (I currently use Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose conditioner) and very gently detangle with a wide-tooth comb
  • Cover with a shower cap and wrap with a towel. Leave on for 1 - 8 hours. Basically depends on what I'm doing at the time!
  • Rinse out with cold water
  • Apply leave in conditioner (I use Kim Love's recipe - find it in the intro box of her KimmayTube YouTube channel)
  • Apply a shea butter mix I created (with Jojoba oil and a few drops of essential oil to make it creamy
  • Two-strand twist away! (It takes me 2-3 hours)
• Daily spritz with a water and oil mix (about 1 tbsp of Jojoba oil and/or vegetable glycerin in an approximately 150ml spray bottle)

I usually wash and twist on a Sunday or Monday and then take the twists out on Friday or Saturday. The twist-out can last 2-4 days. All I do in the mornings is spritz my hair with the water and oil mix, to bring life back to the sleep-matted tresses. Water works magic! Learning that I don't have to avoid it is probably the best thing I've done for my hair.

One thing I'm not so happy about is how much work this all takes! I'm going to be honest here: I thought locs were a lot of work but, taking good care of my "loose" natural hair is so much more intensive. I don't say this to discourage anyone considering going natural though because, after all is said and done, it's absolutely worth it! Well, I think so at least.

Natural hair wearers out there – why is it worth it for you?

12 months, 12 posts you loved

I know I have a penchant for lists and if ever I needed an excuse to create one, surely today is the day. Tomorrow marks one year of Afri-love and as I reflect on all the people that I've come across and had the opportunity to meet (if even just virtually), I want to share with you the most popular posts. It so happens that indeed, most of them are interviews with some of these people. I am honoured to be a part of this army of creatives and change-makers and I look forward to meeting and collaborating with more of you.

12. Interview with Lesley of Ododo Originals
Lesley's inspiring story of how a crafty hobby turned into a full-time blossoming enterprise.

11. Interview with Erika of Mikuti

The lady behind the ethical fashion enterprise shares what inspired her to start a business in Tanzania.

 

10. Interview with artist, Chief Nyamweya
The first interview in the series! A great interviewee to kick-off the idea of sharing what drives talented Afri-loving people to do what they love. 

 

9. Interview with AfriPOP! editor and music marketeer, Phiona Okumu
This lady embodies Afri-love in every way shape and form. It was great to have her share that indomitable energy with us. Hope it rubs off!

 

8. Natural hair journey: 4 months on and getting my protective styling on
I've discovered so many blogs and vlogs out there dedicated to caring for natural Afro hair. However, not many from people with my super-kinky hair type. So, I decided to share my journey. I've "been natural" for 10 years now and before July last year, 5 of those years were spent in locs. Since my second big chop, I've been occasionally documenting the process and my learning along the way. Yes, 10 years and there's still so much to learn!

 

7. Interview with Ihsani Culture
My long term comrade in the pursuit of Afri-love, in her reincarnation as a fashion design director, shares her passion and her beautiful designs.

 

6. My natural hair journey, part 3
My third new beginning: wearing my hair loose and natural. Funny, "loose" is a very ironic term for these more-compact-than-steelwool curls!

 

5. Celebrating our crowning glory: Le Coil
Beautiful people, regal in their natural hair. Sharing the work of photographer Jamala Johns and her fabulous blog, Le Coil.

 

4. Interview with artist and photographer, Mutua Matheka
This man's lens is relentless! He captures Kenya in a way that it has never been captured before. Personalities, architecture, moods, energy. His portfolio is a must-peruse.

 

3. Five reasons why Ghana is the next African app powerhouse
The first guest post from the man behind Afriapps. This went up just last week and has been creating a buzz across the interweb. Look out for more insightful pieces from Andrew Mugoya, every month. 

 

2. Inspired by Dimitra Tzanos: for the love of Africa
A designer with a passion for all things Africa. She shared some of her colourful and exciting work with us. 

 

1. Interview with fashion stylist and blogger, Nancie Mwai
Fashion reigned supreme. The interview with Nancie Mwai was the most popular Afri-love post in the blog's inaugural year. Personally, there was something about this interview that truly reminded me of why I started the interview series in the first place. Hearing about somebody successfully doing something that, as a child growing up in Kenya, I didn't even knew somebody could professionally do – now that's inspiring.

I look forward to bringing you even more encouraging stories, makers, dream-chasers, action-takers and shakers. Shaking the continent and keeping it alive with the spirit that inspires the world!

 

All image details available in the respective posts